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How to go from Užice to Bajina Bašta: A backpacker's guide

April 1st, 2024
Užice early in the morning

Pronouciation guide:

Latin Cyrillic Spelt out
Užice Ужице Uuu-zhi-tsa
Bajina Bašta Бајина Башта Baa-ee-na Bash-ta (Bajina is pronounced like hyena)

Užice is a city in Serbia in the west in the mountains. It is built into the hilly rural land. It is dense and transitions sharply from city to farmland. Farmer's villages connect the larger cities in a loose network of dirt tracks and skinny asphalt roads. All in all it is great land for hiking and camping.

Serbians love their countryside but seldem travel between towns on foot or on bike. For example you can walk 30 minutes from the center of Belgrade across the Panchevo bridge and be in the deep countryside. This hiking trail is not used by walkers or runners even on the weekends. To Serbians intercity foot travel is a quaint affixation of hippie types. As long as they can easily tell that you are not a gypsy you will pass without much attention from people. The wild dogs during the daytime are sedate and will not bother you.

The walk starts in the north west side of Užice on the hillside. The first few climbs are the steepest ones. Near Užice the taxi cabs will circle you like vultures expecting you to give up and drive back in exchange for exorbitant amounts of cash. The walk out of the Užice switches between steep farm track and asphalt roads. The terrain eventually plateaus into steady rolling hills.

35 km, ascent 1209m, descent 1379m Big incline Top of the first (and only) climb

You don't have to bring tons of water. There are many watering holes and small shops in the countryside.

Water spigot Carrot? Village The hills after leaving Užice

Most of the hike is through dry shrubby meadows and farms. There are some forested sections near the airport.

Old overgrown trail close to the airport

After going past the airport you will find yourself walking mostly downhill. There are some hidden attractions in this area. Try to see if you can find this ladder on a big boulder!

Ladder View from ladder

The down-hike is very beautiful. The hike ends with a 5 km walk along the highway which can be bypassed by hitchhiking.

Walking down to the highway

The Serbian countryside is not reserved for farmers and speeding yugos blasting folk music. It deserves to be discovered by hikers and I think you should go to Serbia.